After Guadalajara, I then traveled next to Guanajuato, a beautiful city in the central highlands of Mexico. Before I try explain this city, a warning: it is probably the most beautiful city on Earth and no words, nor pictures, can do it justice.
It is built in a very narrow valley, and constructed in such a manner that many roads run on top of each other. Because of size constraints, most streets are very narrow and more closely resemble alleys, and cars cannot fit through. It was built on massive silver weath that accumulated in the region centuries ago and thus most of the architecture is old, colonial style. It all adds up to make one incredible city.
The other incredible feature of Guanajuato is its arts scene: it's a University town and known as one of Mexico's most cultured cities. Each day and night it's easy to come across free cultural performances scattered throughout the city, whether that be music, street performers or dancing. Wonderful!
However, because of its altitude (around 2000 meters) it does get quite chilly in the evenings. I know this goes against all popular opinion in Canada, but Mexico can be damn cold. I think one of the coldest nights of my life was spent in GTO - I was shivering all night long in my bed, unable to sleep because I couldn't feel my feet. I cursed myself for not bringing warmer clothing (I too was guilty of thinking Mexico would be tropical all over) and desperately longed for a toque. The houses, because they lack both insulation and central heating, only make it worse and create a sort of refrigerator effect, leading me to think that sleeping outside might be better. Luckily for me, the next day I stumbled upon the stash of extra blankets at the hostel and took 3 more for myself. ;)
Guanajuato has become quite famous recently for the discovery of mummies in their cemetary. The dry climate and soil conditions create the perfect recipe for mummification! This was only discovered somewhat recently, when people were taking out bodies from graves to replace with newer bodies (due to lack of space). What they found was not decomposed remains, but perfectly preserved mummies! Accordingly, a museum was built to showcase them. (Although I'm not sure how I feel about this. These people obviously didn't give their consent to be put on display. I wouldn't want to be in a museum, left for gawking tourists to stare at). They're very well preserved - the hair, the hands, the shoes, it's all there. And the whole process only takes about 7 years.
Guanajuato also has a wonderfully fun traditional activity called a callejoneada - which I was lucky enough to participate in! Traditionally, big groups of people would be led throughout the street by musicians and dancers, and everyone would sing and dance as they went. Occasionally they would stop and tells jokes and stories, and a burro would be loaded up with wine for all. It's similar now, except there is no burro, or wine, and instead we drink juice, out of a very funny looking, bong-shaped glass. Still, it was a ton of fun, and lasted about 2 hours. We snaked through the streets, singing (me not so much, as I'm not an expert on traditional Mexican folklore music) and dancing. The jokes I couldn't quite understand, but I believe they got a bit racy - hand gestures are understandable in all cultures and languages.
After Guanajuato is was time for San Miguel de Allende, yet another gorgeous town set in the highlands of Mexico. The only qualm I have about SMA is that it's a bit too perfect. The paint on the buildings isn't faded and there's neither garbage in the streets nor grafitti marking most of the buildings. For me, in Mexico, most of the appeal lies in its less-than-polished demeanor. Yes, it is a bit rough around the edges. Yes, it can be dirty. But that's what makes it unique and what makes it Mexico. San Miguel, while gorgeous, lacks this character and seems a bit too 'Disneyland-ish'. (It is actually referred to as the Disneyland of Mexico). While a nice break and a great place to relax, it doesn't convey the spirit and energy I feel in the rest of Mexico. Perhaps that's due to the 12,000 foreign residents who live there.....hmmm....
I had a great couchsurfer in SMA and was treated to wonderful cooking and hospitality (such a nice break from cheap street food. Quesadillas are great, but when you have them for days on end...) I even got my clothes washed in a machine rather than by hand in a hostel sink! What has my life become when the biggest luxury for me is having my clothes washed for me rather than done myself? Oh no...... But seriously, it was so refreshing to feel at home somewhere and not have to pack my bag up every night, or cringe at the smell of my shirt, or roll my eyes at another taco stand. And I made a friend! Gotta love couchsurfing! Truly the traveler's best friend.
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